2 Months Went by Quickly
Since my last post, I have been able to spend a lot of time with my family over the break, started a new - LAST - semester of college, worked, re-worked, and re-re-worked my line. I am not quite done with all of the finishing touches but I can see the end…. which is coming up quickly.
I am pretty sure that every time I go back and look at my posts I have changed this detail or that one. With every change my line gets a little stronger. I have a few kinks to work out and a fast approaching deadline.
By the end of last semester, we had already had 2 faculty/ mentor review meetings with some great input. They noticed details that I had not noticed… changing a straight style line to a curved one on the second look to unite that piece, taking in the legs of the pants for a more fitted look, adding width at the bottom of the maxi skirt so the model can make large steps… For the most part, they love the direction this line has taken and reaffirmed it’s cohesiveness (to me). During the last review all the garments were in their final fabrics and needed one last fitting for the models, hems, and accessories.
Due to some fitting issues, I have one final review in about 5 days to show the review board that I have fixed the fitting problems and the line is ready for runway.
These are my (mostly) Final Illustrations for my line
18 hours later…
The samples are completely dry. The ball molded sample was difficult to peel off, the ball left definite impressions and also transferred some of the ball coloring to the flower. The pins were difficult to remove and the majority of the pins broke during removal. This sample has a flatter more round shape. The more organic sample stayed in the same shape and remained stiff but slightly malleable. The pins were easy to remove without breakage. This sample is better than I had hoped for and was easier to handle. I really like how it turned out and ready to get them into production. The backsides were darker than the original fabric but not glossy.
The samples really remind me of a hibiscus flower and this will help in finishing the printed pattern for the other garments.
3-D Flower Testing
I made a flat pattern and am testing the fabric on a polyester shantung. The fabric has a slight sheen to it but I am using glossy Mod Podge to enhance the shine. Earlier testing shows that I need to apply the adhesive quite thick to have a more solid and glossy effect. The first flower test is using my children’s ball to hold the shape. I am anticipating the ridges of the ball are going to leave imprints and am curious to see how that will turn out. And the second test is a more natural or organic fall. Both are using pins on the reverse to pinch in the difference between where the petals would be on a flower, similar to adding darts in a garment.
These are the floral patterns I have been working on to get a more mature feel. Softer and yet still bold. The individual flowers will also be larger and not a small paisley pattern. I don’t like the kaleidoscope patterns as much as the individual flowers, but will keep them around awhile.
I am working on editing the patterns down, picking one or two individual flowers and going from there. I wanted to see what each flower looked like in this process. I have already decided the Iris (lowest center purple flower) is out.
Look 4 First Fitting
All of my expectations for this look were met. I expected the top to be very wide and too short at the front hem. I took in the side seams and center back, lowered the arm holes, and will lengthen the front hem by 2 inches. The darts at the neckline need to be smoothed out a bit but lay surprisingly flat.
The skirt length was perfect for tall heals, which was the plan. Also, the hem is not wide enough but I new I need to adjust that as well. The fitting was quick but will now be able to move on to the next steps of re-drafting the patterns and sewing another test for the next and final fitting.
*Someone forgot her camera and will have pictures taken at the next fitting.
Look 1 First fitting
As expected, the dress lines were correct and this will only need minor tweaking. I am able to pull out enough fullness in the dress to keep it smooth on her body and remove the fish eye darts in the panels.
Look 3 new patters to be tested.
Yes, I was tired when I sewed the pockets to the outside of the pants. We test for a reason :)
Look 3 draping
I decided to drape the cami on the mannequin, since this is a knit fabric. I prefer drafting most days, but it refreshes me to design 3-demensional. I created 2 stye lines for the neck. I want to see which works better for this look. One is scooped and one is v-shaped to change things up and bring some interest to the front of the look. This cowl is also the newest test for this look with all of the adjustments needed from the last fitting.
Look 2 first fitting.
The original patterns from this look did not fit into my line as well. They were too busy for my classic styling. Originally the skirt was an a-line skirt with printed floral patterns throughout the skirt. The top was an a-symmetrical wrap top with short flowing sleeves.
So I went back to the drawing board. I used a basic skirt and torso block I had made over the summer to redraft my patterns with more accuracy. Her measurements were very similar to my model in look 3 and this might come in handy in the future. I am going to take this to create her a new top and skirt and do another fitting.
*The new look is described in a previous blog.