Stephanie Hillman's Senior Line Design Process

After going through pictures, I thought I would share a little...

Tue, 13 Mar 2012 22:03:06 -0500

Dress Rehearsal

After the 5:30pm show

Carrie getting makeup done by Melissa

Elizabeth getting her hair done by Haley

70 some people backstage!

Model: Katie

Model: Melissa

Model: Carrie

Model: Elizabeth

After going through pictures, I thought I would share a little more of the day before the show and on the runway, ENJOY!

Time to Show-Off Pics!

Tue, 13 Mar 2012 21:42:32 -0500

“Twelve” Senior Fashion Show, “Eleven designers and One show.”

A year has gone by since planning began and all the tears and careful preparation payed off! My line was ready to go, I had checked off everything on my list and packed everything in my studio for that “just in case” moment. I had already gone to every store to perfectly accessorize my line and was excited to see everything come together.

The first of two shows that night was emotional, I am grateful to have shared this with my family and friends. By the second show, I was excited and having more fun - my jitters were gone. I had proven to myself that I could do this and was proud to show it to the world.

Bespoke Hair Artisans did a beautiful job in hair and makeup (a special thanks to Haley and Melissa). Guppy Studios took these great photos and was able to capture the strength, youth, and confidence of each look and model.

Without any more delay here is my Senior Line …

Look 1:

This princess seam tank dress features hand dyed linen and small pleats radiating around the neckline.

Model: Katie Mackereth

Shoes: Target

Jewelry: Francesca’s

Look 2:

The top is made of soft light weight satin and translucent cotton voile. This perfectly fit pencil skirt with two front pockets is a cotton sateen blend with MY DESIGN PRINTED on it.

Model: Melissa Benedict

Fabric printed by: spoonflower.com

Shoes: Heartbreakers

Jewelry: Francesca’s

Look 3:

This low draped chiffon cowl back tank is completely transparent in the back and has a light weight satin underlay in the front. The lace bandeau bra is an added surprise under the top. These gorgeous pants are made of a light weight wool with a heathered pink surface.

Model: Carrie Rahm

Shoes: DSW

Belt: J Crew

Jewelry: Francesca’s

Look 4:

This top has two contrasting crepe satin fabrics at the shoulders with pleats radiating around the neck line. The maxi skirt is a cotton silk blend with MY DESIGN PRINTED on it!

I was lucky enough to have two beautiful models for this look, so I thought I would share both of their pictures!

Model: (Top) Shannon Hoelzel (Bottom) Elizabeth Davelaar

Fabric printed by: spoonflower.com

Shoes: (Top) DSW (Bottom) Target

Belt: J Crew

Jewelry: Francesca’s

Finale… But I am not done, just beginning!

Watching the football game and hemming dresses… just a little football and fashion.

Sun, 05 Feb 2012 18:28:54 -0600

Watching the football game and hemming dresses… just a little football and fashion.

This is my self made Bias-Facings-Cutting-Pattern-Board. I need...

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 01:16:39 -0600

This is my self made Bias-Facings-Cutting-Pattern-Board. I need a lot of fairly long facings cut on the bias to finish some edges. And my niece got a new Cozy Coupe for Christmas so I got a large box; that I flattened and am using as a cutting surface. I measured out the width of the bias pieces and drew the pattern directly on the cardboard. I think it works out pretty well!

Oh as a bonus, I also learned that cutting chiffon with a rotary tool is more effective than scissors.

My To-Do List:

Mon, 30 Jan 2012 00:59:00 -0600

Look 1

~~-Take in fullness at top/ let out fullness on bottom from fitting~~

~~-Repeat for Lining~~

~~-Sew in Lining~~

-Hem

*Jewelry Accessories

*Nylons

Look 2

~~-Re-sew top in white (recently learned that in different lighting the top changes color)~~

*Fitting to adjust back seam

*Sew in Bias Facings

*Jewelry Accessories

*Nylons

*Bra

Look 3

~~-Add underlay to Cowl Tank (cami is out)~~

-Sew in Bias Facings

-Hem Top

-~~Finish hand-stitching waistband (3/4 done, my hands needed a break)~~

*Hem Pants & Belt Loops

*Jewelry Accessories

*Shoes

*Bra

*Belt

Look 4

-Hem Top

*Exchange belt for smaller size

-For Final Review

*Before Fashion Show

Ok, so it isn’t as bad as it seems… Average 2-2.5 hours per look (not including shopping but I have a couple weeks for that). Do-able.

Had the first shoot for the Look Book. Shannon looked amazing...

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 18:31:16 -0600

Shannon, my model, getting her hair done

When no one is watching

Had the first shoot for the Look Book. Shannon looked amazing and was great in front of the camera. The green looks great on her. I was really precise while I was measuring the hem for her skirt - and it was PERFECT! I have to admit, I teared up a little.

Process Pics

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 18:26:00 -0600

My colorful flowers

Make-shift photo shoot

My son helping me dye the linen

Process Pics

Model Rehearsals

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 16:55:00 -0600

This year we, as a class, are very active in getting our models ready for the runway. We have a Runway Coach, Dustin, that is training the girls. I am very grateful he is donating so much time for us, especially since I decided to use untrained girls to walk in my clothes. He is firm but not mean. He shares his insight and explains with videos what professional models are doing. I am learning a lot as well.

This past week we reserved space in a dance studio so the girls could see their walks. This was really beneficial and I saw improvement in one night! Each practice they are getting more confident.

There are two more regular rehearsals and then one last rehearsal the night before the show in the real space. I think I will see nervousness coming out that night. I am not sure who will be more anxious me or them?

In the design process, my pattern originally started very...

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 15:32:00 -0600

Motif

Look 2 Fabric

Look 4 Fabric

In the design process, my pattern originally started very literal with my inspiration of flowers and transformed into an implied and more modern sketch of the flower. Paying very close attention in a class, I started to doodle. This motif appeared on my paper. Then, I took that design and made it into an Illustrator file. From single motif, I altered and repeated it creating 2 fabrics for my line.

The company I chose to do the printing did not have the sheer fabric I was looking for in the early stages of design. So I changed the skirt in Look 4 from 2 layers to 1 but kept the original concept and applied this to the design of the fabric.

I should have known there would be inconsistencies when I...

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 14:47:23 -0600

I should have known there would be inconsistencies when I scanned the fabric to the computer and when I did it twice I got two different colors.

2 Months Went by Quickly

Wed, 25 Jan 2012 14:39:00 -0600

Since my last post, I have been able to spend a lot of time with my family over the break, started a new - LAST - semester of college, worked, re-worked, and re-re-worked my line. I am not quite done with all of the finishing touches but I can see the end…. which is coming up quickly.

I am pretty sure that every time I go back and look at my posts I have changed this detail or that one. With every change my line gets a little stronger. I have a few kinks to work out and a fast approaching deadline.

By the end of last semester, we had already had 2 faculty/ mentor review meetings with some great input. They noticed details that I had not noticed… changing a straight style line to a curved one on the second look to unite that piece, taking in the legs of the pants for a more fitted look, adding width at the bottom of the maxi skirt so the model can make large steps… For the most part, they love the direction this line has taken and reaffirmed it’s cohesiveness (to me). During the last review all the garments were in their final fabrics and needed one last fitting for the models, hems, and accessories.

Due to some fitting issues, I have one final review in about 5 days to show the review board that I have fixed the fitting problems and the line is ready for runway.

These are my (mostly) Final Illustrations for my line

Tue, 15 Nov 2011 13:40:30 -0600

Look 1 Illustration

Look 2 Illustration (Pre Changes)

Look 3 Illustration

Look 4 Illustration

These are my (mostly) Final Illustrations for my line

18 hours later… The samples are completely dry. The ball...

Sat, 12 Nov 2011 10:17:00 -0600

Note the ball transfer on right flower

3-D Flower Testing

3-D flower Back Sides

18 hours later…

The samples are completely dry. The ball molded sample was difficult to peel off, the ball left definite impressions and also transferred some of the ball coloring to the flower. The pins were difficult to remove and the majority of the pins broke during removal. This sample has a flatter more round shape. The more organic sample stayed in the same shape and remained stiff but slightly malleable. The pins were easy to remove without breakage. This sample is better than I had hoped for and was easier to handle. I really like how it turned out and ready to get them into production. The backsides were darker than the original fabric but not glossy.

The samples really remind me of a hibiscus flower and this will help in finishing the printed pattern for the other garments.

3-D Flower Testing I made a flat pattern and am testing the...

Sat, 12 Nov 2011 10:04:00 -0600

Beginning Sample Flat Patterns

Sample 1 - on ball mold

Samle 2 - organic, no mold

3-D Flower Testing

I made a flat pattern and am testing the fabric on a polyester shantung. The fabric has a slight sheen to it but I am using glossy Mod Podge to enhance the shine. Earlier testing shows that I need to apply the adhesive quite thick to have a more solid and glossy effect. The first flower test is using my children’s ball to hold the shape. I am anticipating the ridges of the ball are going to leave imprints and am curious to see how that will turn out. And the second test is a more natural or organic fall. Both are using pins on the reverse to pinch in the difference between where the petals would be on a flower, similar to adding darts in a garment.

These are the floral patterns I have been working on to get a...

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 02:07:00 -0600

Leaves Kaleidoscope

Rose Kaleidoscope

Working Flower Shapes/ Designs

These are the floral patterns I have been working on to get a more mature feel. Softer and yet still bold. The individual flowers will also be larger and not a small paisley pattern. I don’t like the kaleidoscope patterns as much as the individual flowers, but will keep them around awhile.

I am working on editing the patterns down, picking one or two individual flowers and going from there. I wanted to see what each flower looked like in this process. I have already decided the Iris (lowest center purple flower) is out.

Look 4 First Fitting

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 01:42:01 -0600

All of my expectations for this look were met. I expected the top to be very wide and too short at the front hem. I took in the side seams and center back, lowered the arm holes, and will lengthen the front hem by 2 inches. The darts at the neckline need to be smoothed out a bit but lay surprisingly flat.

The skirt length was perfect for tall heals, which was the plan. Also, the hem is not wide enough but I new I need to adjust that as well. The fitting was quick but will now be able to move on to the next steps of re-drafting the patterns and sewing another test for the next and final fitting.

*Someone forgot her camera and will have pictures taken at the next fitting.

Look 1 First fitting As expected, the dress lines were...

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 01:35:40 -0600

Front Dress - 1

Side Dress - 1

Back Dress - 1

Front Dress - 1

Back Dress - 1

Look 1 First fitting

As expected, the dress lines were correct and this will only need minor tweaking. I am able to pull out enough fullness in the dress to keep it smooth on her body and remove the fish eye darts in the panels.

Look 3 new patters to be tested. Yes, I was tired when I...

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 01:25:56 -0600

Back Cowl -3

Side Cowl - 3

Front Cowl -3

Pants - 2

Look 3 new patters to be tested.

Yes, I was tired when I sewed the pockets to the outside of the pants. We test for a reason :)

Look 3 draping I decided to drape the cami on the...

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 01:20:00 -0600

Cami Style Lines -1

Cami Front - 1

Cami Back -2

Back Cami w/ Cowl

Look 3 draping

I decided to drape the cami on the mannequin, since this is a knit fabric. I prefer drafting most days, but it refreshes me to design 3-demensional. I created 2 stye lines for the neck. I want to see which works better for this look. One is scooped and one is v-shaped to change things up and bring some interest to the front of the look. This cowl is also the newest test for this look with all of the adjustments needed from the last fitting.

Look 2 first fitting. The original patterns from this look did...

Mon, 07 Nov 2011 01:12:20 -0600

Back Basic Fitting

Front Basic Fitting

Look 2 first fitting.

The original patterns from this look did not fit into my line as well. They were too busy for my classic styling. Originally the skirt was an a-line skirt with printed floral patterns throughout the skirt. The top was an a-symmetrical wrap top with short flowing sleeves.

So I went back to the drawing board. I used a basic skirt and torso block I had made over the summer to redraft my patterns with more accuracy. Her measurements were very similar to my model in look 3 and this might come in handy in the future. I am going to take this to create her a new top and skirt and do another fitting.

*The new look is described in a previous blog.